The World’s Best Pastry Chef 2022, sponsored by Sosa

The World’s Best Pastry Chef 2022, sponsored by Sosa

René Frank

Coda, Berlin

Veritable dessert guru creating sophisticated small plates

René Frank’s name is synonymous with spectacular food. After completing his culinary training, the young German chef worked his way up to head pastry chef at La Vie in Osnabrück, before opening his own dessert-led venue in Berlin, named Coda. Serving contemporary dishes inspired by pastries around the world, Coda has skyrocketed Frank onto the global stage.

Taking inspiration from his sojourns to some of the world’s richest culinary scenes, such as Japan, France, Spain and Switzerland, Frank combines his flawless technical skill with powerful raw ingredients.

Adhering to strict self-sufficiency and a ‘bean to bar’ concept, Frank’s team prepares fresh chocolate by hand each day, while refined sugars and artificial flavours are eschewed from use in the kitchen. Frank designs Coda’s dishes with one philosophy in mind: to show that desserts are more than just the final course, they can be a nourishing meal in their own right.

In spite of offering a dessert-only tasting menu, Coda is not only about sweetness. Frank leans into ingredients that tantalise all corners of the palate. Across the seven-course menu, expect saline notes from herbs and olives, the umami-smack of cheese, rich meats and a tangy drizzle of homemade vinegar and tamarind dressing. 

Each dish is named after a star ingredient, such as parsley root, grilled apple or rhubarb, and is served paired with a fastidiously chosen wine or liqueur. Frank delves into a range of handcrafted liquids, such as kefir and kombucha, to perfectly complement the flavours and aromas of his dishes.

Offering a choice of either a seat at the bar, which overlooks the bustling open kitchen, or one of the 20 covers, Coda promises an exclusive and intimate dining experience in the heart of Berlin’s trendy Neukölln neighbourhood.

As arguably the greatest honour in global cuisine that can be bestowed upon a cook majoring in dessert cookery, there is no doubt that René Frank’s already burgeoning trophy cabinet will find a special position for The World’s Best Pastry Chef Award, sponsored by Sosa.

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